Finding new homes for the loved ones

It has never been our idea to sell our bikes in Hanoi. The journey will end, we will go home, but our bikes have to remain in Vietnam with new users. 

We used them also in Hanoi and as a final service they took us to the Lenin monument, the Ho Chi Min mausoleum, to the crashed B52 bomber inside the city and to the botanic garden. Riding in Hanoi was fun but I also found that I was more scared than before. Traffic is hectic and being so close to our trip's end I definitely did not want anything awkward to happen. Actually I was rather pleased when we decided that this was it, now we had to get rid of the bikes. 

I rather rapidly came to the conclusion that I wanted to trade Gretchen against something I wanted. It should become a memory from Vietnam, a memory from our travel and a memory of my bike. I found the item rather quickly, a lovely smiling Buddha that makes me feel good. I will put this Buddha somewhere I could see him everyday. That will make my day to start in a really good way. It took a while to convince the shop owner about the trade. She was more interested in providing a discount on the Buddha than to achieve an experianced motor bike. At the end, and with some help from the hotel owner, we finally made the trade with no money involved. All parties were very pleased and to my joy was Gretchen cleaned when I saw her the next morning. Hopefully her new owner will keep her that way.

Nisse found a painting he does not have room for but likes very much. The presently non existing own wall will show up with time and meanwhile waiting I have no problem to house the painting for him. In this case no third party had to be involved. The gallery owner showed up, tested the bike and said yes without any hesitation. Later that afternoon we saw this new owner and his son driving Becky, waving to us with big smiles. Both Becky and Gretchen will be taken well care of.

Some people has asked about the typhoon. We thank you for your worries but we did not experience it at all. The Phillipines took all the problems especially since the typhoon changed its path and almost never went into Vietnam. Some rain did fall, hardly no wind at all.

Toninight we have returned to Sweden, our Vietnamese journey is over. We have returned safely, we are tired and very pleased. 

//Stefan

Business as usual

In the news we read about the dreadful situation on the Philippines after the monster super typhoon Haiyan. In Vietnam people has worried a lot especially in the middle part of the country, Da Nang and Hue area, but as the typhoon all of a sudden changed its path towards north it now passes above the Golf of Tonkin until it reaches the area of Hanoi and further up north into China. But in Hanoi noone seems to care, the streets are full of all sorts of products and trade is conducted as any other day. The only ones concerned we met so far, was two tourists that wanted to fly to HCMC today. A rather stupid approach as they then will travel somewhat towards the storm not escape from it. 

According to weather reports will the typhoon loose it strength from super typhoon down to a tropical storm, http://typhoonstormwatch2012.blogspot.com/ , and I guess tropical storms are of no big concern in the capitol. Still we will face some heavy rainfall, more than 160 mm is predicted for tomorrow, and Nisse and I plan to experiance also this. But first we will salubrate our journey by some cultural dance performance in a theatre. Did I mention "business as usual"?

//Stefan

We made it, we made it, we made it

We have reached Hanoi, the final destination on our journey through Vietnam. Becky and Gretchen took us all the way. We are therefore very, very grateful to them and will carefully search for good future owners. It has been a long journey and yes we are tired. We are proud that we made it, but also glad that it is over. Today's distance was again more than 160 km and this time on busy highways where road construction took place almost continuesly. We left the beautiful Cat Ba early this morning on a ferry, and after that it has been like one long "village main street" the whole way to Hanoi disregarding the four-lane highway at the end.

Hanoi, the capitol of Vietnam, seems to be a rather nice place. We plan to stay here a few days for final shopping, tourism and finding cheap tickets back home. We are also waiting for the monster typhoon that just left the Philippines. According to weather reports is it approaching Vietnam during the next two days and Hanoi early Monday morning local time. It step by step turns towards north and us. The typhoon is supposed to loose its strength as soon as it arrives over land and Hanoi is not situated at the coast. We are therefore not that worried although it will be windy and some heavy rain is anticipated. I think it will be a piece of cake compared to driving on two wheels to Da Lat. 

//Stefan

Facing a touch of rasism

This morning I went angry. We had chosen a "better" and more expensive hotel, with a nice reception. It was not for the fancy elevator but more that it was crowded with people, both guests and personnel.
That was a mistake. Nisse went angry when the promised WiFi not worked and noone wanted to rearrange it. I did not really care but it annoyed me that the promised garage for our bikes just was exchanged to an instruction "you may lock the bikes and place them in front of the entrance". But it was still okey. We should only remain here two nights anyhow.
The following morning we had ordered a full-day boat trip out in Halong Bay and we were a little bit in a hurry at breakfast. Then we discovered that they only allowed us one day's breakfast and, worse, they refused us to enter the room where the other guest already had started their meal. The promised buffé was no longer for us, we were not wanted in the room. That statement made me loose my temper and I went furious. The poor servant unfortunately was told a little bit of everything. Still she responded fast to our demands and we had our breakfast solely in the bar. No buffé of course, but who has time for that when new adventures are awaiting. Directly afterwards we took our belongings and checked out. We made it in time for the boat's departure.

I am a little bit surprised of my own reaction. I could take some disappoinment with a sloppy bathroom, no WiFi, no garage etc, but if they refuse me to eat with the other Vietnamese guests I protest immediately. We were treated well in the bar but I could not accept it anyhow. And this special treatment is what a lot of people by various reasons are facing every day. Now I know a little bit more how it feels to have the "wrong" nationality or a different colour of your skin. I will certainly keep that in mind.

Nisse will hopefully tell you about the day in Halong Bay. Let me just say it was a lovely day to remember ...

//Stefan

Bikes is the answer to so many questions ...

Yesterday we went out on a boat but today we wanted something different. Our explicit goal was to look at the ferries and their schedules as well as checking out possibilities to hire kajaks outside our harbor, closer to the Halong Bay peninsula. So we decided to use our bikes again, a rather easy decision. 

Driving on Cat Ba is excellent as the island is very hilly. The roads passes the beautiful landscape with a lot of turns and a lot of downhills and uphills. Most of the roads are covered by tarmac and if not, then it's most likely a road improvement going on. Becky and Gretchen were more than willing to bring us from Cat Ba town at the south coast to the other on the west. And then we drove to a third one on the north side of the island where we plan to make our departure.

As Nisse always wants to climb mountains, and as Cat Ba island has a natural peak in the middle, I had a rather hard hour to follow him doing so. But we both managed and it paid off with a magnificent view. We met a colourful spider on our way down and we managed to have it on photo. But to our sadness and relief (strange feeling indeed) we were told that the spider was harmless. I will send the photo to Reine T. I think he likes spiders. 

A fourth harbor nearby was paid a visit and then we were in full control of where, when and to what cost tomorrow's kajak will be rented. The afternoon ended by providing support to a german couple who were 3 km off uphill and looked a little bit tired.

Now Gretchen is maintained (new motor oil, breaking light in order, correct air pressure in the tires, a full tank and a greased chain). We are ready for a final day full of kajaking in Cat Ba and then we are heading towards Hanoi. The big typhon that presently threatens the Philippines will probably pass Vietnam below us although some heavy rain is anticipated. We definitively do not want to be in the typhons path more than necessary. 

//Stefan

Missing Mockba

As an old friend were we greeted when we reached Cat Ba in the sunset. Memories from last visit flooded back and with them as a filter could I relive the island like it was my very first time. Al thou my body was tired after a tedious day on the road could I feel inside me the ecstatic sensation of a child on crack, or the same child on the day before Christmas, whatever lay closer to heart. I couldn't wait to get out in the bay.

Cat Ba is an island surrounded by limestone formations, eroded over the centuries to a majestic maze of steep cliffs and mysterious caves and tunnels. A few fishing boats bobs around in the coves and hawks circle in the sky. It's all very pretty, but there's one place on this island I wanted to visit more then any. I wanted to return to Mockba.

If you by kayak follow the east coast for half a day north from Cat Ba Town, then you will find a tunnel leading in to one of the mountains. You'll probably find plenty of tunnels, and this doesn't look peculiar in any way. In fact it looks fairly insignificant, but on the other side hides a cathedral. A floor of resting jade and on the other side, twenty meters up on a overhanging pedestal Mockba sleeps. He looks like a demigod, four meters high and carved in a single peace of rock. It's possible it's a piece of the mountain, and in many ways I'm sure he is, for he is the guardian of the cathedral and, what I can only assume, a long lost religion.

Maybe we can go there tomorrow?

//Nisse

Breaking every rule

During almost 40 years of driving in Sweden, I have only been fined a few times for bad parking and twice for too high velocity. In Vietnam I haven't been fined yet but I brake every rule possible. We are sometimes speeding to high, we occasionally drives against red. When necessary we uses the wrong lane and we make overtakes in the most suitable way, quite often on the right hand side. Sometimes we even go in the wrong direction of the road. My breaking light is gone, and so is the trip and speed indicators. But that is of course minor problems.

Still we believe that we only adapt to the common way of driving in this country. It is like being a part in a computer game with obstacles coming from any direction and you just try to avoid them all. Today we encountered two trucks going in the wrong direction on a two-lane highway inside Hai Phong, but all the motor bikes just stopped and let them pass. Because in this country co-laboration is a must. Most of our fellows in the trafic just cheer to us and waves. The bus drivers instead hunk their horns and forces us out on the sidewalk.

When we returns we will try to rapidly forget all these inherited habits but it might be hard. I guess nothing will be as it was and if I miss my bike too much maybe I had to buy a scooter in Sweden. 

Besides this, everything is great. We have reached our (very much) goal Cat Ba. From now on everything is regarded as extra.

//Stefan

Resting in Sam Son

We've come a long way, Ha Noi looks to be within the reach of a grasp and our travel would have come to an end. That just wouldn't do, the country might be done with us but we're not yet done with the country, but before the expedition continued we just wanted a short break from the dreadful climate of Highway 1.

We can already look back at some spectacular climates and environments. The changes we've been forced to deal with on a daily basis have been drastic and they have all provided certain flavors to the trip. From frantically avoiding accidents in the swarming traffic of Ho Chi Minh, up on the bumpy and/or twirling roads in Bao Loc and Da Lat, making our way through the clouds and down the beautiful scenery to the coast in Nha Trang, getting lost in tiny city slums, holding on for dear life on a raging highway, through rain and storm, sunlight and smog, we already feel like we've made it all the way.

That's why we treated ourselves with another break on the beachfront, where I could have a romantic ride with Becky. What a magnificent creation she's been during this time. We've taken every mile together, we growled in harmony as we twisted along the mountains and I sang for her as we cruised along the highway. It's uncertain whether she understands Swedish hip-hop but I'm sure the feeling went through the language barrier. Such a warm and understand soul she has, but I've also been burned. A few scorch marks cover my inner calves and it's first now that some of them are starting to heal.

We soon got tired of the beach, as so often before, and left. Bugs and encrypted food lists might have played a part, but we could feel that the bikes wanted to continue. I'm struggling to recall a single day we haven't taken them for a spin. Parting in Ha Noi will be difficult.

//Nisse

The importance of one additional inch

People that study others, might occasionally learn something new. Yesterday I managed to do so. A blonde backpacker, riding a faster bike than ours, had her luggage strapped perpendicular to the saddle. This is good in many ways as it allocates a little bit more of the road to your vehicle and, maybe more important, it occupies less of the saddle. I gave it a try this morning and what a relief. Having more space on the saddle, maybe just one extra inch, I could change position in so many more ways and after almost three weeks on the roads: that is important. 

Besides this it was a dull travel on highway 1 which from now on will be avoided. We only managed some 130 km until we decided to have an early stop. We drove to the coast and found a lovely small beach town called Sam Son close to Thanh Hoa. It seems to be full of Vietnamese people on vacation. For us, this year's final jump into the sea might have occurred. It was lovely. 

Those of you who, based on the title, hoped for some other topic; shame on you.

//Stefan

A magnificent, historical road

Just as the daylight started to fade, we reached Vinh, the city where the famous Ho Chi Min once were born. It was with sadness we left the beautiful Lake House in Phong Nha as we have had two really good days there. Mr Tony, Mrs Tham and their crew have really taken good care of us. But life most go on and so our jouney, so we settled towards the North. 

To our surprise and joy was the road, The Ho Chi Min trail that passes through Phong Nha national park, just wonderful. Most of it was in excellent condition and the curves were plenty and well suited. Not too many trucks and hardly no bus in the wrong lane made this trip the best one so far. Somewhere in the middle of todays 200 km my gear pedal finally gave up. But it was exchanged within 10 min just 200 m from the place where it first was noticed. I love driving Honda in this country. 

We have now had three flat tires, exchanged two batteries and one major electrical part of one engine. I am on my fifth helmet and the new one is yellow, has a visir and says Harley on top. It is a little bit small but I think it will do for the rest of the trip.

We are now rather tired and most likely another full day on saddle awaits us tomorrow morning when we are heading for Nimh Binh

//Stefan

A day with a climax

Not to spoil our memories from the two caves yesterday, we decided to do something quite different today. Joe, the entertainer at the Lake House, volountered to take us on a bicycle tour through the surounding villages.

We met the nowadays world famous organiser of visits to the largest cave on earth, Son Doon, but due to the season, flooding, it presently was closed for visits. We saw the entrance to another cave and enjoyed the wonderful Vietnamese black coffee. On our way back "home" we managed to eat twice, had at least three ricevin shoots tasted and hired a boat to cross a river.

We bought some rice vine with us to have another zip when this days final meal should be eaten. 'Cause we had ordered snake for dinner.

To eat snake is more of a ceremony than having dinner. The poor snake was emptied on blood when still alive. The last part of its tail was chopped off at the end to squize out the last part. And this tail was "alive", twirling at least 2 minutes after cut-off.

The blood was gathered in one of our rice vine bottles together with the snake's heart, and while the rest of the snake was prepared, we enjoyed this flavoured ricevine supposed to give our group of seven people additional strength. 

It is clear that you have to eat a lot of snakes in order to fill an empty stomach. This grass snake was rather slim and it contained more bones than I have ever encountered before, all sorts of fish species accounted. It was an experience, we all felt stronger, but at the end we ordered a more ordinary meal as well. 

//Stefan

Darkness in the caverns depths

In a hole in the ground, that's where most adventures start off due to Bilbo Baggins, and so does this one. It didn't look much more then a hole in the ground when we first saw it, but it grew with catastrophic proportions as we slowly entered into The Paradise Cave of Dong Thien Doung. The massive stalagmites created all sorts of monsters and hellish beings as we traveled further in to the underworld of highlighted grey. When someone accidentally took out the spotlights and returned complete and utter darkness in to this deepest part of the Vietnamese jungle, then we couldn't do much else then laugh.

We were fairly content as we drove back from the big caves, childishly playing along the twirling roads on our motorbikes, when we saw someone offering a paddling tour. In the state of someone fairly content, we weren't exactly jumping on the idea of setting out on another adventure, but as in the wise words of those barely old enough to cutlery properly; “yolo” and off we went. This time with lifewests and torches strapped to our heads, and what luck we did.

As our guide, called “the Guide”, “the Master”, “Mighty Pathfinder” and something in his own tongue, took us out on the river in a fairly leaky boat was I laughing constantly. Partly because laughter is universal and often a helpful way to establish contact with anyone, partly because the inflatable boat was loosing air rapidly and lastly because the speedos I'd been given to wear looked ridiculous. How sad it was that the camera ran out of battery just before take off.

Giggles and playing is all very well, but Mighty Pathfinder soon pointed us in the direction of a big opening by the river, leading in to the mountain. We floated closer, steering the sinking boat closer to the river bank and docked on a minor wooden construction. Another cave laid before us, this time enveloped in deeper and deeper layers of darkness. I've always been afraid of the unknown, but I've always enjoyed a mystery, so it was with a scared curiosity we carefully but proudly strode in and lit our headlamps.

A vast nothingness went on for longer then the torches could lighten so with open mouths the Master took us further in, and down to the water. The height of the cave was indeterminable, and depth of the water scared me to even imagine, but we waded in on a smooth sandy bottom. Soon that disappeared and we had to swim. My imagination ran wild, picturing all sort of creatures lurking underneath, but looking forward in to a black nothingness wasn't helping either. I childishly swam a few meters with my eyes closed, letting all sort of mythical beings take place beneath and above me, and when we shortly reached a bank within the cave was I more then eager to hurry up from the water, but now the journey had just begone.

We were to travel further and in to a place of mud. Where all this mud came from is unclear but it covered every wall, probably the roof and a thick layer on the ground, thick enough that getting stuck became a great concern. Mighty Pathfinder wasn't done yet, our screams and overall high-pitched complaints seemed to urge him onward and show us the deepest parts of the cave. Hills and slopes of mud continued for what felt like hours, and when I was just about to surrender in this mud fight against the mountain were we suddenly back by the water. The second swim awaited.

For another seven kilometers the cave apparently continued, but a ten minutes swim was enough. Floating on our backs, slowly drifting around in the water could we find some calm and properly appreciate what an astounding place it was.

//Nisse

Conquer the Hai Van pass, reaching Hue like an emperor, Sunday Oct 27,

After being dressed like two gentlemen in Hoi An, we stripped naked and jumped into our ordinary road clothes again. We drove versus Danang on the coast way in order to find the famous China Beach. To ours and most likely everyone else disappointment, only minor parts of the beach are  made public. The big companies, Hyatts etc, have bought the land, put walls in front and guards the area. Inside, yes we tested at a few places, not too many guests are present. So the whole beach is almost unused. Damn these protected areas and long live the "allemansrätt" we are used to in Sweden. 

As a contrast to this access disappointment, the Hai Van pass was excellent. Nisse found the place for his favorite part in "Top Gear goes to Vietnam", I found myself driving slowly just to make it continue forever. The highest point is at 1469 m and it slowly brings you there with so many nice turns. The pass is a natural climate border and we expect to face colder and less humid weather from now on.

We reached Hue during late afternoon, and noticed that the Sun went orange also at very high elevation angles. Most likely it is because of all exhaust products and I guess we inhal quite a lot. Before dinner one is definitely forced to wash hands, arms, face and glasses as they are all black. But if you are too rapidly and untidy, the towel will be spoiled. 

Another disappointment was found in the late opening clothes shops of Hue. Having so many fine tailors nearby, I think they could do better than import everything from China. But so they do. Copies of clothes wearing famous designers name appearently sells better in Hue than silk from Vietnam. What a pity, how sad. 

Besides this, everything is great!

//Stefan

Elusive Hoi An

My love for Becky grows for every day. She's such a plucky little thing, never complaining and always ready to go. Dad keeps talking about how Gretchen can go on for longer, since she apparently have a bigger tank, but there's no way I'd trade away this energy-filled cuteness. Not to mention her bravery! Passing a slow moving truck on winding roads could terrify anyone but her determination keeps us going.

Today's goal was Hoi An, but finding the way to the city proved harder then ever before. Our search for Vinh Dien, also Dien Ban or City that doesn't exist, had rendered us low on petrol and miles off before realizing our error and only running on fumes did we finally roll in to Hoi An. Luckily a hotel was found in minutes and after a quick lunch did we hit the showrooms. Getting personalized clothing in this city is more something that creeps up on you and then smacks you in the face then something you go out looking for and in my ordinary mannerly and world-traveled way did I truly believe, since I've been in Hoi An before, that discussing the price would be a doddle.

Not even slightly. The busy shop-owners once again managed to vanquish the two travelers, as so many times before, and both shock and acceptance followed when the price list arrived. After a lot of bargaining the price was somewhat reasonable and we limped out from the shop to lick our wounds like hockey team playing in the wrong division. If only Becky had been there with me in the shop, maybe she could have helped us out.

//Nisse

Dazed

“She took my money...” I squealed like the sad little piglet I was. I fell effortlessly on my belly after a half-hearted try to get up from the bed. I sighed and stared in to the abyss, which happened to be a coffee table with two overturned glasses and an uncomfortable but stylish hotel chair. There where complaints waiting to to be said but all I could afford was a low moaning. The headache from last nights drinking didn't make anything better.

We'd eventually reached the coast yesterday, and soon found a perfect little resort to bolster our energy. It was a rather fancy place and we ended up drinking with four business men from Hue who was there on some mini vacation. They treated us with both alcohol and cigarettes, happily giving us way more then we actually wanted. It was hard to refuse since they wanted nothing in return. We got fairly blasted before we managed to thank them properly and leave so there was two very happy Swedes who went to get some massages.

Two turns in the sauna and long massage later had most of my body went in to coma. I was gratefully thanking the kind lady when she reached out her cupped hands and asked for, what I assumed was, money. We'd already paid in advance so it's possible she just wanted a tip, but all I had left was a 500.000 Dong bill which she got after a lot of confusion. The massage itself had cost about 90.000. Maybe that's why I was so upset when I woke up the day after, maybe I was just mad that I was so easy to fool. I'm finally over it now, almost 24 hours later, and I can see now that someone with such a talent and timing in puppy-eye begging deserves the money.

//Nisse

Hard and soft followed by easy and heavy

Yesterday we made big progress and drove some 200 km along the coast. In return we, at the end, found a very nice but empty resort perfectly suited for two tired travelers. At dinner we learned about HuDa beer, a Danish -Vietnamese colaboration with a factory in Hue. The evening ended with a fantastic full body massage of the two road heroes.

Today we took it easier but heavier. Not that many kilometer on the highway, but we visited Son My and its touching memorial site. May the memory of Son My make it impossible to happen again.

//Stefan

The four travelers, a brief introduction

Nisse and Stefan just before leaving Da Lat

Becky and Gretchen at a pit stop

Eeh, where were we going again?

We drove all day towards a goal without a name. Everything sounds more or less similar, two days ago we where in Nha Trang, yesterday we passed Da Trang and hopefully, tomorrow, we'll reach Da Nang. No question we get confused sometimes. Some names stick because they sound funny, like Binh Dinh or Bien Dong, but apart from them we only learn the names of the cities we've passed.

Today Becky wanted some extra attention and tore of a valve. Maybe she was jealous that Gretchen had got so many pit stops, maybe she wanted a rest from the scorching sun. If I had to guess, then my bet would be on the big intercity buses that roam freely on the highways and mud roads alike. With a demonic screech from the deepest reaches of hell they horn at you when they pass at a speed of the Roadrunner. I have myself sought refuge a few times if only to get a breather from the stress they put on everyone in the vast vicinity of where they roam.

So it's been slow progress on the road today, with many stops for petrol, oil, water and food. We don't seem to make the distance we once hoped for, but little does that matter with such friendly people. It's possible that they just make fun of us, but there's always someone coming up to us, not always to talk since the language barrier is like a massive Berlin wall between us, but just to make contact in any way. It's also always done with a big friendly smile. I like that. It's nice. It's probably not healthy to get this much attention, but for now is it nice.

Dad seems to have fun with it. Soon after lunch he tried to marry me of to some local diner owners daughter in the middle of the jungle. I was less keen. 

Quote of the day: "Let's have a shot of something local!" - Stefan, age 56, before dinner.

//Nisse

Finding our way

In HCMC we bought the bikes, a map and new simcards. It took a while. Then we learn eating on the streets, orientating, negotiating and not get lost for too long.
Today we have a method on how to signal on the roads, ok / stop now  /stop soon / wanna talk etc. We know where to put keys and not to forget the camera. We almost know how fast we travel, we know how to change the gear and how to fill up the tank. We still have problems with the currency.

One of us normally reads the map. He forces us forward, finds the food and other supplies and occasionally he also rapily identifys necessary mechanics. The other person has the more colourful flag (to be easier spotted in a back mirror) and a little longer flag stick which actually draw some attention and cheering from passed police officers (no fine, just apploads). But the most important contribution from the person normally going second, is that I have a working rear light bulb. We will fix the other in due time, but not tonight in Tuy Hoa.

//Stefan

Into the mud

With sadness but also big expectations we left DaLat and the wonderful Dreams hotel this morning, heading for Nha Trang. We were told that the road was new and therefore not included in all guide books. 30 km downhill was waiting, sometimes as steep as 30% according to rumour. Will we master this I wondered silently. 

Well we did. Actually it was the view, the wind and the rain that became our main problems. And one or two busses wanting our lane at the wrong moment of course. 

Later that day the importance of eco-driving became obvious when one of us all of a sudden had a bike that not wanted to move any further. Becky simply refused. The only problem we are able to fix is what we in Swedish call "soppatorsk", an embarassing situation that always ought to be avoided. We found a mobile petrol delivery man and Becky was with us again.

But what about the title? Well, we ended our day taking a mud bath ouside Nha Trang. We had a full body peeling, talked about density and had a great time. Very funny indeed, relaxing, grey and contempary.

//Stefan