A day with a climax

Not to spoil our memories from the two caves yesterday, we decided to do something quite different today. Joe, the entertainer at the Lake House, volountered to take us on a bicycle tour through the surounding villages.

We met the nowadays world famous organiser of visits to the largest cave on earth, Son Doon, but due to the season, flooding, it presently was closed for visits. We saw the entrance to another cave and enjoyed the wonderful Vietnamese black coffee. On our way back "home" we managed to eat twice, had at least three ricevin shoots tasted and hired a boat to cross a river.

We bought some rice vine with us to have another zip when this days final meal should be eaten. 'Cause we had ordered snake for dinner.

To eat snake is more of a ceremony than having dinner. The poor snake was emptied on blood when still alive. The last part of its tail was chopped off at the end to squize out the last part. And this tail was "alive", twirling at least 2 minutes after cut-off.

The blood was gathered in one of our rice vine bottles together with the snake's heart, and while the rest of the snake was prepared, we enjoyed this flavoured ricevine supposed to give our group of seven people additional strength. 

It is clear that you have to eat a lot of snakes in order to fill an empty stomach. This grass snake was rather slim and it contained more bones than I have ever encountered before, all sorts of fish species accounted. It was an experience, we all felt stronger, but at the end we ordered a more ordinary meal as well. 

//Stefan

Darkness in the caverns depths

In a hole in the ground, that's where most adventures start off due to Bilbo Baggins, and so does this one. It didn't look much more then a hole in the ground when we first saw it, but it grew with catastrophic proportions as we slowly entered into The Paradise Cave of Dong Thien Doung. The massive stalagmites created all sorts of monsters and hellish beings as we traveled further in to the underworld of highlighted grey. When someone accidentally took out the spotlights and returned complete and utter darkness in to this deepest part of the Vietnamese jungle, then we couldn't do much else then laugh.

We were fairly content as we drove back from the big caves, childishly playing along the twirling roads on our motorbikes, when we saw someone offering a paddling tour. In the state of someone fairly content, we weren't exactly jumping on the idea of setting out on another adventure, but as in the wise words of those barely old enough to cutlery properly; “yolo” and off we went. This time with lifewests and torches strapped to our heads, and what luck we did.

As our guide, called “the Guide”, “the Master”, “Mighty Pathfinder” and something in his own tongue, took us out on the river in a fairly leaky boat was I laughing constantly. Partly because laughter is universal and often a helpful way to establish contact with anyone, partly because the inflatable boat was loosing air rapidly and lastly because the speedos I'd been given to wear looked ridiculous. How sad it was that the camera ran out of battery just before take off.

Giggles and playing is all very well, but Mighty Pathfinder soon pointed us in the direction of a big opening by the river, leading in to the mountain. We floated closer, steering the sinking boat closer to the river bank and docked on a minor wooden construction. Another cave laid before us, this time enveloped in deeper and deeper layers of darkness. I've always been afraid of the unknown, but I've always enjoyed a mystery, so it was with a scared curiosity we carefully but proudly strode in and lit our headlamps.

A vast nothingness went on for longer then the torches could lighten so with open mouths the Master took us further in, and down to the water. The height of the cave was indeterminable, and depth of the water scared me to even imagine, but we waded in on a smooth sandy bottom. Soon that disappeared and we had to swim. My imagination ran wild, picturing all sort of creatures lurking underneath, but looking forward in to a black nothingness wasn't helping either. I childishly swam a few meters with my eyes closed, letting all sort of mythical beings take place beneath and above me, and when we shortly reached a bank within the cave was I more then eager to hurry up from the water, but now the journey had just begone.

We were to travel further and in to a place of mud. Where all this mud came from is unclear but it covered every wall, probably the roof and a thick layer on the ground, thick enough that getting stuck became a great concern. Mighty Pathfinder wasn't done yet, our screams and overall high-pitched complaints seemed to urge him onward and show us the deepest parts of the cave. Hills and slopes of mud continued for what felt like hours, and when I was just about to surrender in this mud fight against the mountain were we suddenly back by the water. The second swim awaited.

For another seven kilometers the cave apparently continued, but a ten minutes swim was enough. Floating on our backs, slowly drifting around in the water could we find some calm and properly appreciate what an astounding place it was.

//Nisse

Conquer the Hai Van pass, reaching Hue like an emperor, Sunday Oct 27,

After being dressed like two gentlemen in Hoi An, we stripped naked and jumped into our ordinary road clothes again. We drove versus Danang on the coast way in order to find the famous China Beach. To ours and most likely everyone else disappointment, only minor parts of the beach are  made public. The big companies, Hyatts etc, have bought the land, put walls in front and guards the area. Inside, yes we tested at a few places, not too many guests are present. So the whole beach is almost unused. Damn these protected areas and long live the "allemansrätt" we are used to in Sweden. 

As a contrast to this access disappointment, the Hai Van pass was excellent. Nisse found the place for his favorite part in "Top Gear goes to Vietnam", I found myself driving slowly just to make it continue forever. The highest point is at 1469 m and it slowly brings you there with so many nice turns. The pass is a natural climate border and we expect to face colder and less humid weather from now on.

We reached Hue during late afternoon, and noticed that the Sun went orange also at very high elevation angles. Most likely it is because of all exhaust products and I guess we inhal quite a lot. Before dinner one is definitely forced to wash hands, arms, face and glasses as they are all black. But if you are too rapidly and untidy, the towel will be spoiled. 

Another disappointment was found in the late opening clothes shops of Hue. Having so many fine tailors nearby, I think they could do better than import everything from China. But so they do. Copies of clothes wearing famous designers name appearently sells better in Hue than silk from Vietnam. What a pity, how sad. 

Besides this, everything is great!

//Stefan

Elusive Hoi An

My love for Becky grows for every day. She's such a plucky little thing, never complaining and always ready to go. Dad keeps talking about how Gretchen can go on for longer, since she apparently have a bigger tank, but there's no way I'd trade away this energy-filled cuteness. Not to mention her bravery! Passing a slow moving truck on winding roads could terrify anyone but her determination keeps us going.

Today's goal was Hoi An, but finding the way to the city proved harder then ever before. Our search for Vinh Dien, also Dien Ban or City that doesn't exist, had rendered us low on petrol and miles off before realizing our error and only running on fumes did we finally roll in to Hoi An. Luckily a hotel was found in minutes and after a quick lunch did we hit the showrooms. Getting personalized clothing in this city is more something that creeps up on you and then smacks you in the face then something you go out looking for and in my ordinary mannerly and world-traveled way did I truly believe, since I've been in Hoi An before, that discussing the price would be a doddle.

Not even slightly. The busy shop-owners once again managed to vanquish the two travelers, as so many times before, and both shock and acceptance followed when the price list arrived. After a lot of bargaining the price was somewhat reasonable and we limped out from the shop to lick our wounds like hockey team playing in the wrong division. If only Becky had been there with me in the shop, maybe she could have helped us out.

//Nisse

Dazed

“She took my money...” I squealed like the sad little piglet I was. I fell effortlessly on my belly after a half-hearted try to get up from the bed. I sighed and stared in to the abyss, which happened to be a coffee table with two overturned glasses and an uncomfortable but stylish hotel chair. There where complaints waiting to to be said but all I could afford was a low moaning. The headache from last nights drinking didn't make anything better.

We'd eventually reached the coast yesterday, and soon found a perfect little resort to bolster our energy. It was a rather fancy place and we ended up drinking with four business men from Hue who was there on some mini vacation. They treated us with both alcohol and cigarettes, happily giving us way more then we actually wanted. It was hard to refuse since they wanted nothing in return. We got fairly blasted before we managed to thank them properly and leave so there was two very happy Swedes who went to get some massages.

Two turns in the sauna and long massage later had most of my body went in to coma. I was gratefully thanking the kind lady when she reached out her cupped hands and asked for, what I assumed was, money. We'd already paid in advance so it's possible she just wanted a tip, but all I had left was a 500.000 Dong bill which she got after a lot of confusion. The massage itself had cost about 90.000. Maybe that's why I was so upset when I woke up the day after, maybe I was just mad that I was so easy to fool. I'm finally over it now, almost 24 hours later, and I can see now that someone with such a talent and timing in puppy-eye begging deserves the money.

//Nisse

Hard and soft followed by easy and heavy

Yesterday we made big progress and drove some 200 km along the coast. In return we, at the end, found a very nice but empty resort perfectly suited for two tired travelers. At dinner we learned about HuDa beer, a Danish -Vietnamese colaboration with a factory in Hue. The evening ended with a fantastic full body massage of the two road heroes.

Today we took it easier but heavier. Not that many kilometer on the highway, but we visited Son My and its touching memorial site. May the memory of Son My make it impossible to happen again.

//Stefan

The four travelers, a brief introduction

Nisse and Stefan just before leaving Da Lat

Becky and Gretchen at a pit stop

Eeh, where were we going again?

We drove all day towards a goal without a name. Everything sounds more or less similar, two days ago we where in Nha Trang, yesterday we passed Da Trang and hopefully, tomorrow, we'll reach Da Nang. No question we get confused sometimes. Some names stick because they sound funny, like Binh Dinh or Bien Dong, but apart from them we only learn the names of the cities we've passed.

Today Becky wanted some extra attention and tore of a valve. Maybe she was jealous that Gretchen had got so many pit stops, maybe she wanted a rest from the scorching sun. If I had to guess, then my bet would be on the big intercity buses that roam freely on the highways and mud roads alike. With a demonic screech from the deepest reaches of hell they horn at you when they pass at a speed of the Roadrunner. I have myself sought refuge a few times if only to get a breather from the stress they put on everyone in the vast vicinity of where they roam.

So it's been slow progress on the road today, with many stops for petrol, oil, water and food. We don't seem to make the distance we once hoped for, but little does that matter with such friendly people. It's possible that they just make fun of us, but there's always someone coming up to us, not always to talk since the language barrier is like a massive Berlin wall between us, but just to make contact in any way. It's also always done with a big friendly smile. I like that. It's nice. It's probably not healthy to get this much attention, but for now is it nice.

Dad seems to have fun with it. Soon after lunch he tried to marry me of to some local diner owners daughter in the middle of the jungle. I was less keen. 

Quote of the day: "Let's have a shot of something local!" - Stefan, age 56, before dinner.

//Nisse

Finding our way

In HCMC we bought the bikes, a map and new simcards. It took a while. Then we learn eating on the streets, orientating, negotiating and not get lost for too long.
Today we have a method on how to signal on the roads, ok / stop now  /stop soon / wanna talk etc. We know where to put keys and not to forget the camera. We almost know how fast we travel, we know how to change the gear and how to fill up the tank. We still have problems with the currency.

One of us normally reads the map. He forces us forward, finds the food and other supplies and occasionally he also rapily identifys necessary mechanics. The other person has the more colourful flag (to be easier spotted in a back mirror) and a little longer flag stick which actually draw some attention and cheering from passed police officers (no fine, just apploads). But the most important contribution from the person normally going second, is that I have a working rear light bulb. We will fix the other in due time, but not tonight in Tuy Hoa.

//Stefan

Into the mud

With sadness but also big expectations we left DaLat and the wonderful Dreams hotel this morning, heading for Nha Trang. We were told that the road was new and therefore not included in all guide books. 30 km downhill was waiting, sometimes as steep as 30% according to rumour. Will we master this I wondered silently. 

Well we did. Actually it was the view, the wind and the rain that became our main problems. And one or two busses wanting our lane at the wrong moment of course. 

Later that day the importance of eco-driving became obvious when one of us all of a sudden had a bike that not wanted to move any further. Becky simply refused. The only problem we are able to fix is what we in Swedish call "soppatorsk", an embarassing situation that always ought to be avoided. We found a mobile petrol delivery man and Becky was with us again.

But what about the title? Well, we ended our day taking a mud bath ouside Nha Trang. We had a full body peeling, talked about density and had a great time. Very funny indeed, relaxing, grey and contempary.

//Stefan