A day with a climax

Not to spoil our memories from the two caves yesterday, we decided to do something quite different today. Joe, the entertainer at the Lake House, volountered to take us on a bicycle tour through the surounding villages.

We met the nowadays world famous organiser of visits to the largest cave on earth, Son Doon, but due to the season, flooding, it presently was closed for visits. We saw the entrance to another cave and enjoyed the wonderful Vietnamese black coffee. On our way back "home" we managed to eat twice, had at least three ricevin shoots tasted and hired a boat to cross a river.

We bought some rice vine with us to have another zip when this days final meal should be eaten. 'Cause we had ordered snake for dinner.

To eat snake is more of a ceremony than having dinner. The poor snake was emptied on blood when still alive. The last part of its tail was chopped off at the end to squize out the last part. And this tail was "alive", twirling at least 2 minutes after cut-off.

The blood was gathered in one of our rice vine bottles together with the snake's heart, and while the rest of the snake was prepared, we enjoyed this flavoured ricevine supposed to give our group of seven people additional strength. 

It is clear that you have to eat a lot of snakes in order to fill an empty stomach. This grass snake was rather slim and it contained more bones than I have ever encountered before, all sorts of fish species accounted. It was an experience, we all felt stronger, but at the end we ordered a more ordinary meal as well. 

//Stefan

Darkness in the caverns depths

In a hole in the ground, that's where most adventures start off due to Bilbo Baggins, and so does this one. It didn't look much more then a hole in the ground when we first saw it, but it grew with catastrophic proportions as we slowly entered into The Paradise Cave of Dong Thien Doung. The massive stalagmites created all sorts of monsters and hellish beings as we traveled further in to the underworld of highlighted grey. When someone accidentally took out the spotlights and returned complete and utter darkness in to this deepest part of the Vietnamese jungle, then we couldn't do much else then laugh.

We were fairly content as we drove back from the big caves, childishly playing along the twirling roads on our motorbikes, when we saw someone offering a paddling tour. In the state of someone fairly content, we weren't exactly jumping on the idea of setting out on another adventure, but as in the wise words of those barely old enough to cutlery properly; “yolo” and off we went. This time with lifewests and torches strapped to our heads, and what luck we did.

As our guide, called “the Guide”, “the Master”, “Mighty Pathfinder” and something in his own tongue, took us out on the river in a fairly leaky boat was I laughing constantly. Partly because laughter is universal and often a helpful way to establish contact with anyone, partly because the inflatable boat was loosing air rapidly and lastly because the speedos I'd been given to wear looked ridiculous. How sad it was that the camera ran out of battery just before take off.

Giggles and playing is all very well, but Mighty Pathfinder soon pointed us in the direction of a big opening by the river, leading in to the mountain. We floated closer, steering the sinking boat closer to the river bank and docked on a minor wooden construction. Another cave laid before us, this time enveloped in deeper and deeper layers of darkness. I've always been afraid of the unknown, but I've always enjoyed a mystery, so it was with a scared curiosity we carefully but proudly strode in and lit our headlamps.

A vast nothingness went on for longer then the torches could lighten so with open mouths the Master took us further in, and down to the water. The height of the cave was indeterminable, and depth of the water scared me to even imagine, but we waded in on a smooth sandy bottom. Soon that disappeared and we had to swim. My imagination ran wild, picturing all sort of creatures lurking underneath, but looking forward in to a black nothingness wasn't helping either. I childishly swam a few meters with my eyes closed, letting all sort of mythical beings take place beneath and above me, and when we shortly reached a bank within the cave was I more then eager to hurry up from the water, but now the journey had just begone.

We were to travel further and in to a place of mud. Where all this mud came from is unclear but it covered every wall, probably the roof and a thick layer on the ground, thick enough that getting stuck became a great concern. Mighty Pathfinder wasn't done yet, our screams and overall high-pitched complaints seemed to urge him onward and show us the deepest parts of the cave. Hills and slopes of mud continued for what felt like hours, and when I was just about to surrender in this mud fight against the mountain were we suddenly back by the water. The second swim awaited.

For another seven kilometers the cave apparently continued, but a ten minutes swim was enough. Floating on our backs, slowly drifting around in the water could we find some calm and properly appreciate what an astounding place it was.

//Nisse

Conquer the Hai Van pass, reaching Hue like an emperor, Sunday Oct 27,

After being dressed like two gentlemen in Hoi An, we stripped naked and jumped into our ordinary road clothes again. We drove versus Danang on the coast way in order to find the famous China Beach. To ours and most likely everyone else disappointment, only minor parts of the beach are  made public. The big companies, Hyatts etc, have bought the land, put walls in front and guards the area. Inside, yes we tested at a few places, not too many guests are present. So the whole beach is almost unused. Damn these protected areas and long live the "allemansrätt" we are used to in Sweden. 

As a contrast to this access disappointment, the Hai Van pass was excellent. Nisse found the place for his favorite part in "Top Gear goes to Vietnam", I found myself driving slowly just to make it continue forever. The highest point is at 1469 m and it slowly brings you there with so many nice turns. The pass is a natural climate border and we expect to face colder and less humid weather from now on.

We reached Hue during late afternoon, and noticed that the Sun went orange also at very high elevation angles. Most likely it is because of all exhaust products and I guess we inhal quite a lot. Before dinner one is definitely forced to wash hands, arms, face and glasses as they are all black. But if you are too rapidly and untidy, the towel will be spoiled. 

Another disappointment was found in the late opening clothes shops of Hue. Having so many fine tailors nearby, I think they could do better than import everything from China. But so they do. Copies of clothes wearing famous designers name appearently sells better in Hue than silk from Vietnam. What a pity, how sad. 

Besides this, everything is great!

//Stefan

Elusive Hoi An

My love for Becky grows for every day. She's such a plucky little thing, never complaining and always ready to go. Dad keeps talking about how Gretchen can go on for longer, since she apparently have a bigger tank, but there's no way I'd trade away this energy-filled cuteness. Not to mention her bravery! Passing a slow moving truck on winding roads could terrify anyone but her determination keeps us going.

Today's goal was Hoi An, but finding the way to the city proved harder then ever before. Our search for Vinh Dien, also Dien Ban or City that doesn't exist, had rendered us low on petrol and miles off before realizing our error and only running on fumes did we finally roll in to Hoi An. Luckily a hotel was found in minutes and after a quick lunch did we hit the showrooms. Getting personalized clothing in this city is more something that creeps up on you and then smacks you in the face then something you go out looking for and in my ordinary mannerly and world-traveled way did I truly believe, since I've been in Hoi An before, that discussing the price would be a doddle.

Not even slightly. The busy shop-owners once again managed to vanquish the two travelers, as so many times before, and both shock and acceptance followed when the price list arrived. After a lot of bargaining the price was somewhat reasonable and we limped out from the shop to lick our wounds like hockey team playing in the wrong division. If only Becky had been there with me in the shop, maybe she could have helped us out.

//Nisse

Dazed

“She took my money...” I squealed like the sad little piglet I was. I fell effortlessly on my belly after a half-hearted try to get up from the bed. I sighed and stared in to the abyss, which happened to be a coffee table with two overturned glasses and an uncomfortable but stylish hotel chair. There where complaints waiting to to be said but all I could afford was a low moaning. The headache from last nights drinking didn't make anything better.

We'd eventually reached the coast yesterday, and soon found a perfect little resort to bolster our energy. It was a rather fancy place and we ended up drinking with four business men from Hue who was there on some mini vacation. They treated us with both alcohol and cigarettes, happily giving us way more then we actually wanted. It was hard to refuse since they wanted nothing in return. We got fairly blasted before we managed to thank them properly and leave so there was two very happy Swedes who went to get some massages.

Two turns in the sauna and long massage later had most of my body went in to coma. I was gratefully thanking the kind lady when she reached out her cupped hands and asked for, what I assumed was, money. We'd already paid in advance so it's possible she just wanted a tip, but all I had left was a 500.000 Dong bill which she got after a lot of confusion. The massage itself had cost about 90.000. Maybe that's why I was so upset when I woke up the day after, maybe I was just mad that I was so easy to fool. I'm finally over it now, almost 24 hours later, and I can see now that someone with such a talent and timing in puppy-eye begging deserves the money.

//Nisse

Hard and soft followed by easy and heavy

Yesterday we made big progress and drove some 200 km along the coast. In return we, at the end, found a very nice but empty resort perfectly suited for two tired travelers. At dinner we learned about HuDa beer, a Danish -Vietnamese colaboration with a factory in Hue. The evening ended with a fantastic full body massage of the two road heroes.

Today we took it easier but heavier. Not that many kilometer on the highway, but we visited Son My and its touching memorial site. May the memory of Son My make it impossible to happen again.

//Stefan

The four travelers, a brief introduction

Nisse and Stefan just before leaving Da Lat

Becky and Gretchen at a pit stop

Eeh, where were we going again?

We drove all day towards a goal without a name. Everything sounds more or less similar, two days ago we where in Nha Trang, yesterday we passed Da Trang and hopefully, tomorrow, we'll reach Da Nang. No question we get confused sometimes. Some names stick because they sound funny, like Binh Dinh or Bien Dong, but apart from them we only learn the names of the cities we've passed.

Today Becky wanted some extra attention and tore of a valve. Maybe she was jealous that Gretchen had got so many pit stops, maybe she wanted a rest from the scorching sun. If I had to guess, then my bet would be on the big intercity buses that roam freely on the highways and mud roads alike. With a demonic screech from the deepest reaches of hell they horn at you when they pass at a speed of the Roadrunner. I have myself sought refuge a few times if only to get a breather from the stress they put on everyone in the vast vicinity of where they roam.

So it's been slow progress on the road today, with many stops for petrol, oil, water and food. We don't seem to make the distance we once hoped for, but little does that matter with such friendly people. It's possible that they just make fun of us, but there's always someone coming up to us, not always to talk since the language barrier is like a massive Berlin wall between us, but just to make contact in any way. It's also always done with a big friendly smile. I like that. It's nice. It's probably not healthy to get this much attention, but for now is it nice.

Dad seems to have fun with it. Soon after lunch he tried to marry me of to some local diner owners daughter in the middle of the jungle. I was less keen. 

Quote of the day: "Let's have a shot of something local!" - Stefan, age 56, before dinner.

//Nisse

Finding our way

In HCMC we bought the bikes, a map and new simcards. It took a while. Then we learn eating on the streets, orientating, negotiating and not get lost for too long.
Today we have a method on how to signal on the roads, ok / stop now  /stop soon / wanna talk etc. We know where to put keys and not to forget the camera. We almost know how fast we travel, we know how to change the gear and how to fill up the tank. We still have problems with the currency.

One of us normally reads the map. He forces us forward, finds the food and other supplies and occasionally he also rapily identifys necessary mechanics. The other person has the more colourful flag (to be easier spotted in a back mirror) and a little longer flag stick which actually draw some attention and cheering from passed police officers (no fine, just apploads). But the most important contribution from the person normally going second, is that I have a working rear light bulb. We will fix the other in due time, but not tonight in Tuy Hoa.

//Stefan

Into the mud

With sadness but also big expectations we left DaLat and the wonderful Dreams hotel this morning, heading for Nha Trang. We were told that the road was new and therefore not included in all guide books. 30 km downhill was waiting, sometimes as steep as 30% according to rumour. Will we master this I wondered silently. 

Well we did. Actually it was the view, the wind and the rain that became our main problems. And one or two busses wanting our lane at the wrong moment of course. 

Later that day the importance of eco-driving became obvious when one of us all of a sudden had a bike that not wanted to move any further. Becky simply refused. The only problem we are able to fix is what we in Swedish call "soppatorsk", an embarassing situation that always ought to be avoided. We found a mobile petrol delivery man and Becky was with us again.

But what about the title? Well, we ended our day taking a mud bath ouside Nha Trang. We had a full body peeling, talked about density and had a great time. Very funny indeed, relaxing, grey and contempary.

//Stefan

Towards the beachfront

As we set of from Dà Lat had Gretchen got a new look. Strapped to her side was a “Give me some attention”-yellow flag which was a bit too tall and certainly turned a few heads. Foreigners and locals alike stopped and starred as the convoy of Swedish stupidity passed, each one with a stupid flag waving in the wind. Team Dad and Gretchen had adopted Green and Yellow for their overall screaming look while me and Becky had settled for the more sensible Blue and Red.

My mood was not on top as we searched for the exit from Dà Lat. A headache had troubled me all night and Becky had sympathetically develop similar symptom. She was tired and low on power, just like me, but this was soon to change as we headed up in the mountain on twisting roads. Our spirit raised for each turn and soon we blasted off, up and down the snaky roads, until we, eventually, reached the clouds.

Cloud or fog, the sight grew shorter and the roads slipperier. Pretty soon was the sight limited to the bike in front, and shortly after that disappeared as well. Alone in the mountain, barely capable of making out the the side of the road, me and Becky soldiered on at decreasing speed. We tried the horn but no one answered. We tried the phone but no connection.

Later, hope returned. Gloriously erupting from the fog was the yellow flag of Gretchen, soon followed by Dad and our team was reunited again. The clouds dispersed and the sight grew longer. The majestic sight that soon followed made me howl of joy. Down towards the see this vivid green mountain tumbled in endless twists and turns, massive gorges on one side and beautiful waterfalls from huge hilltops on the other. We could see the yellow flatland spread out in the valley far below. It was undisputed the best ride so far.

//Nisse

... and let's slip the dogs of war!

Once again the battles have been raging on the muddy roads outside Dà Lat. Bike versus Road, Man versus Nature, and unlike yesterday; today there were casualties. We've been scuffling around in the hinterlands most of the day, struggling up and tumbling down steep hills while avoiding pot holes and chickens. It's been a lovely rough day and everything where going so well until Dad lost his bike keys in the middle of nowhere. Our struggle across this beautiful country was going so well and we were rapidly collecting points, because it's always important to collect those points, but now the scores are closing in. Let's have a look at the score board:

1 - 0 Bike and Man opens up strong with surviving Ho Chi Minh

1 - 1 Road and Nature counter with classical "Nail in Tire", making the poor travelers miss their over-night goal.

2 - 1 Bike and Man pushes on strong and makes it to Dà Lat before sunset and without any major difficulties.

3 -1 The lead increases as Bike and Man fool around the entire day without breaking a sweat, figuratively, as both Road and Nature weakly tries to hold them back.

3 - 2 Pride goes before the fall and Man makes a fatal blunder when loosing his keys, rendering his bike useless. 

This gives the Man and his Bike a slight lead still, but tomorrows ride east could easily tie up the scores. While heading towards Nha Trang we will pass through Da Chais and Khanh Vinh, or Pass of Evident Suffering and Road of Endless Peril as we've suitably renamed them, before hopefully reaching the coast. We've adapted to the local custom of naming everything endless times, giving me and Becky, also Blue Bullet or Barbara, a distinct advantage against the Road and Nature, probably. Bets are still up and anything can happen!

//Nisse

A busy day in Da Lat

We reached Da Lat yesterday, in accordance to schedule. It is a nice crowded city in the Vietnamese alps having a population of approx 200.000. The city is so lovely that even the fighting forces avoided it during the Vietnam war. Here we spend a few relaxing days travelling without any luggage on the vehicle. What a difference, as we may sit wherever we want on the saddle.
Today we managed two pagodas, one flower garden, the old railway station, a palace, a crazy house and all this just because of easy transports on the motor bikes. The day continued with maintenance ordering, tires, backmirrors, brakes, bulbs etc and a successful search for a new helmet. It is my forth so far, a nice white one with possibility for eye protection as well. And no, I haven' t smasched the others. They just become too small after a while.
Tomorrow we plan to climb a hill and the day after we are going down to the beach of Nha Trang. For those of you of my age, you might remember the feeling driving a scooter, Push Alabama in my case. The freedom, the wind, the speed, the excitement, never to be forgotten. This trip is just the same, although changing roads and conditions, slightly faster, much longer and even more exciting then when I was fiftheen.
//Stefan

Adapt to surrounding conditions

What a vacation. This is completely different from my ordinary way of living and I believe that vacations  shall be different to normal routines.

We have neither tennisrackets nor MLI coats with us. We try to do it the way the people living here does. We have pre-loved bikes, we eat on the streets and we rest in hostels. Helmets are by law, but they look in many manyndifferent ways. No formula 1 equipment for sure, nothing bought in Sweden. It is warm, it is humid, and when it rains you had to take cover. Rapidly.
And we love it ...

We did not make it to Bao Loc today, halfway between HCMC and Da Lat. but we were close when the light went out. A flat tire in the late afternoon somewhat spoiled our plan. The tire was repaired by the second house on the right hand side, there is a mechanic in at least 20% of the houses. And the roads are crowded by bikes. Fascinating and not that scary, because the speed is rather limited.

Tomorrow we continue to Da Lat at high altitude. If the good weather remains, we most likely stays there a few days. Looking forward to that.

We spend money. Dinner took another 40000 away.
//Stefan

Eat my fumes!

Madness would probably summarize this day rather neatly, all the way from the five-lane motorways in Ho Chi Minh to the tiny mud roads between Tân Phù, or Phú Son as everyone called it, and Madaguoil, also “commonly” known as Da Huoai. We've been able to pronounce absolutely nothing today besides, possibly, the word(s?) for Thank you. It's close to the Swedish word for old, so Dad, feeling a bit old, took this close to heart. It only accumulated laughter, but that probably means point for trying.

We'd planned to set off at sunrise but there was some short delays. We took our time with the breakfast, carefully strapped our bags to the bikes and then rearranged the reception when one of the bikes decided not to participate in the exercise. I payed what the raging bike had broken and then we set off. Like two new born horses we staggered out in the mayhem, dodging crazed buses and blending in the schools of bikers. By chance did we stumble upon a road leading out of the city and soon we flew down a highway, hopefully heading somewhere close to east. By then had our talent on motorbiking grown immensely.

“The plumbing doesn't work!” Dad yells from the bathroom. We never made it to Bao Loc which had been the goal, but settled for a village somewhere in the mountain. Dad dragged on to our caravan a flat tire just as the sun was setting and even if a mechanic was found within 20 meters was it still time to get some shelter for the night. This village provides some noodle soup and a surprising amount of 50s traveling cases, so tomorrow I'll have an entirely new look on the baggage-arrangement. Tomorrow I'll be a legit road warrior!

//Nisse

Cry Havoc!

'I'm the road warrior!' My voice blasts over the roaring traffic, somewhere in fairly central Saigon. It's still unclear whether it's called Saigon or Ho Chi Minh, but tomorrow that'll be a problem of the past. We've got our bikes, we've seen the museums and we're ready to leave this ant-hill of a city. I imagine we can finally get some peace and quite on the roads heading to Dà Lat.

Our bikes, suitable named Blue Bullet Barbara and Green Goblin Gretchen, works brilliantly. They were sold to us by two jolly good British fellas who'd already rode them here from the north. There was a slight problem finding the funds for the purchase until we learned that only 1 in 18 foreign-exchange shops do exchange both ways. The jolly good fellas preferred the transaction to be carried out in US dollars, but even this road block was soonishly passed.

Since then we've bought flags, because if you're as handsome as we are with our sweaty t-shirts and sandals, then you want to be seen. We've also unsuccessfully searched for a mechanic, lost the keys, bought some key chains and had a few beers. Sitting at the bar we then pondered the fact that we'd withdrawn 12.000.000 today and that this basically had bought us our freedom. Tomorrow we're taking our freedom for a ride!

//Nisse

Ho Chi Minh city

Staden myllrar av liv. Och den är översvämmad av motorcyklar. Man korsar gatorna med stort mod och utan ett sådant kommer man helt enkelt inte över. Som kontrast kommer dessutom ibland ett par gamla gummor medckarakteristisk konad hatt på cykel.
Vi letar nu motorcyklar som bäst och vi har bytt till Vietnamesiska simkort. Om någon måste nå oss är e-post fortfarande bäst. Men det nya numret är +84 120 441 1428
Det skall regna idag på dagen, något som vi också måste lära oss hantera.

//Stefan

Sheremetyevo

The trip to Moscow was shorter than we expected, and the five hours waiting will get smooth as we already are at the right location. All worries about not having a transfer visa is gone as we (ought to) have left the last passport checkout. A long journey is in front of us and then we land in the crowded Ho Chi Minh city.

//Stefan

Daddy have been educating granddad on the usage of computers for more then a few years now, it's not unusual  that granddad calls for help when he for example accidentally unplugged the keyboard, but for the past months they'd been practicing Skype so we can maintain contact from around the world. Now when reaching Sheremetyevo Airport can't Daddy get his own Skype to work so that's all for nothing. He's a bit disappointed.

//Nisse

Delay

The fall caught up with us in Sweden and the cold is slowly taking a hold of Stockholm. I like the fall, the colours on the trees shift in beautiful nuances and a general cosiness sweeps over the population in the north. The big comfy winter clothes are taken down from the attic, but I'd expected to be somewhere else by this time. We've been delayed two weeks from our travel to Vietnam, due to massive chaos and death all around the Vietnamese coast caused by insane rainfall and wind probably reaching far above the known scales to measure. It didn't really seem suiting to go on a holiday in a country more in need of doctors and engineers then two lost tourists making a mess in the wilderness but now the calm have returned after two weeks. The tickets are bought, the backs are packed and we're ready to go.

Boarding that first plane away from Sweden have been the only thing on my mind for the past month and in the extra two weeks I've become desperate. Someone told me that there's a difference between looking forward to something and obsessively longing and waiting for it to happen, but I've been struggling to put the trip on hold and focus on making something happen back home. After many long goodbyes with friends I couldn't take up contact again just to take of again in a few days, meaning I've lived undercover these days. Instead I've retreated to adventurous documentaries and silly games, hidden in my room without dignity.

I've also reminisced about previous travels and the amazing things I've seen. Themes from Lord of the Rings tend to play in my head while picturing these amazing sites; mountains above the clouds, corals crackling with life, the most distant national parks or the windiest costs, but tomorrow, finally, I get to share this experience with my father.

//Nisse